Months ago I wrote this for a website that I ended up not submitting so why let a decent piece go to waste?
Vivienne
Westwood is notorious for her overt designs, loud prints, political stance and
reinforcing the importance of past eras. Her Spring/Summer 2014 collection is
no exception with her Man line showing
firm signs of Parisian chic and waterfront charm mixed with ancient Roman
gladiator-esque shirts. Tie-dye, berets and chambray are also firm favourites
within the bold and innovative designs. Not to mention the consistent political
theme with her ‘TRUTH’ shirts and clip on accessories branded with Bradley
Manning’s face in reference to the trial in which the former US soldier
allegedly leaked secret government information to WikiLeakes.
Westwood
herself deemed the collection ‘inspired by her trip to India’ with husband Andrea Kronthaler and these themes are
present within the collection of ethnic prints, turban-style head wraps and
oversized lion heads finished with orange hues.
There is a consistency with lilac and vanilla
toned suiting, tartan and warm fine stripes that bring the bold streak down a
level for a more understated yet stunning look. A reinvented 1700’s French
fashion was stylised on the runway in the form of a navy structured waistcoat
complete with gold-buttoned lapels. Reminder of Les Miserables, anyone?
Red Label exercises the usual S/S
cycle with floral prints, navy blue, and vanilla shaded suiting whilst also
completely reinventing the wheel with the edge only Westwood could conjure up
and get away with.
Her women’s concept across both labels is climate change
and this was strongly represented in this collection with
the print shirts branded ‘CLIMATE’ and the variation of different green hues,
the presence of her want for change is strongly reinforced. Vanilla is a consistent
colour throughout her S/S line for both men and women; it’s fresh and warm and
culminates her pieces in a more wholesome way.
Her
floral prints are defined in a more forestation vibe, more greenery and just on
the right side of your granny’s old flower-printed vinyl tablecloth, Westwood
shares this print in her sequined corseted dresses, tops and cropped jackets.
It’s reminiscent in bringing an essence of previous eras into the modern day,
causing a re-appreciation for what we previously deemed relatively ugly.
Tartan is always favoured, especially
within Vivienne Westwood’s collections, her British punk air ever present; she
reincarnated the pattern this season in her suiting, just in a more subtle and
toned down way. The collection was
showcased complete with battered straw hats and gladiator strap wedges, for the
most part, that helped bring the designs to life. Overall it’s an edgy and
oversized-but-synched-waist collection, fresh yet daring and completely
breaking the summer vibrancy of fashion. In an impeccable and exciting way.
Continuing
with the importance of climate change, the Gold Label show was coined ‘Everything Is Connected’ by Ms Westwood
herself, it proclaims ‘that is the main
message of the Climate Revolution and it means that everything each one of us
thinks or says or does can make a difference’. It’s very
African-meets-femininity. It’s medieval and rural, sharing with a world-wide
audience that this is our time to contribute to our own habitat, to make a
change for generations to come. The forestation was more obvious on the runway
with many of the models sporting leaf crowns and carrying sticks representing
feminist forest warriors.
There is
a stark difference between this collection and the Red Label simply because of
the delicacy of the fabrics and embellishments, the way in which the designs
hold a distinct difference in concept and the use of lace and mesh. The dresses
and gowns freely flow, leaving a serene presence in the models wake, to
captivate the audience; they're similar to a beautifully designed Roman toga.
Bold red
African floral prints are stunningly incorporated within the line which flow as
elegantly as the rest. Embellishments are few and far between however the
strong lace detailing (is that leather or
velvet?) are intricate and other pieces are complete with mirrored
reflector embellishments which catch the light in a dazzling way.
It’s
impossible to not bear reference to the footwear completing the looks elegantly
shown off;
some are tan calf-high
gladiator sandals whilst others wear ribbon tied wedges, wide heeled Mary
Jane’s or heels that resonate something typically stylised in the 1970’s disco
era with the bevelled curve.
The
strong daintiness and delicate pieces contrast heavily with the strong and
powerful themes
that the collection holds for its view on the modern day woman
which juxtapose exceptionally.
There’s
nothing about these collections that seem overdone, unwanted or anything less
than sheer brilliance. But at the end of the day, would you expect any less
from one of the greatest designers to have graced the fashion world?
Stay amazing xox
